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Candle Making > Candle Holders, Accessories & Holiday > Fall, Halloween, Thanksgiving Suggestions > 

Fall, Halloween, Thanksgiving Suggestions

HOWTO-CANDY CORN VOTIVE
Votives are so versatile and everybody loves them. These candy corn votives make great gifts and they are fast and easy to make. Layered votives are made by pouring the wax in layers of different colors into the votive cups. The easiest way to make any layered candle is to use a single pour wax with little shrinkage. Paraffin/Vegetable blended waxes and soy waxes made for votive and pillar candles work very well for these layered candles. You can customize the pattern for any season or holiday like red/white candy cane votives for Christmas. Use these instructions for square votives also.

Items you will need:
Votive molds (8 votive cups are needed per lb. of wax)
Votive wick pins
3 Melting pots
Thermometer
Pre-tabbed votive wicks
Votive or pillar candle wax (preferably IGI 6028)
Orange and yellow candle coloring
Candy corn fragrance oil (about 1-1/2 oz. per lb. of wax)
Suitable work area
A stove or hot plate
A wax melter or pot for water (to double boil the wax)


Step 1
Prepare your work area and gather your materials. Turn your melter to 200 degrees or set up your pan of water and melting pots if you are double boiling your wax. Calculate how much wax you will need and heat your wax to 190-200 degrees. Each pound of wax will make about eight votives. Insert the wick pins into your votive molds and arrange the molds on your pouring table.

Step 2
Add 1 oz. of scent for every 1 lb. of melted wax when the temperature reaches 180 degrees. Divide the wax in three equal portions. Add orange color to 1/3 of the melted wax, add yellow color to 1/3 of the melted wax and leave the other 1/3 white. It’s better to start with small amounts of the dye because you can always add more to reach your desired color. Stir the wax with your thermometer until the color is well dissolved. You can test your color by putting a drop of wax on a white piece of paper. Keep in mind that when the wax is hardened it will appear lighter than it looks in the melting pot and darker than it appears on the white piece of paper.

Step 4
Pour the orange wax into the votive mold slowly but smoothly 1/3 full. Use a heat gun to remove any wax that may have splashed on the sides of the votive mold while pouring. These wax spills will mix with your other colors if they are not removed from the mold before pouring the next layer.

Step 5
Wait about a half hour for the orange wax too cool before pouring the next layer. The wax should be cool enough to withstand pouring the next layer without breaking through and mixing. The first layer should also not be cool enough to pull away from the side of the mold otherwise the next layer will run down the side of the candle giving you drip marks. Pour the yellow layer at about 180 degrees so that the votive cup is now about 2/3 full. Wait approximately another ½ hour and then pour the white layer to the top of the mold.

Step 6
Allow the votives to cool fully before attempting to remove from the mold. If the candle does not easily slide out of the mold, tap it gently on the counter or place it in a refrigerator for five to ten minutes then try removing it from the mold again. Never pry or scrape the wax out of the mold. Slide the wick pins out of the candle and insert a pre-tabbed wick.

Enjoy your candles!!!
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HOWTO-BLEEDING SKULL
A bleeding skull candle can be great for many things! At Halloween parties and as decorations everyone will want to know where you found such unique candles!

BLEEDING SKULL CANDLE
Materials Needed:
2 Melting pots (you are working with two different colors)
Skull Mold
Wicking
156mp Paraffin Wax
Micro cubes
Container wax
Titanium White Artist Oil Paint (to color the outer shell)
Red (to color the inner wax)
Dragon’s Blood Scent (optional)
Masking Tape

Step 1:
Prepare mold as normal by setting wick and clamping the mold together. We use masking tape around the edges to keep the mold from leaking.

Step 2:
Wax Preparation - Prepare the outer shell first by melting 1 pound of 156mp paraffin and 1 micro cube to 180 degrees. Add enough white dye oil paint to make the wax look bright white when cool. The oil paint as it gives a creamy white color to the outer shell. You may also just pour the wax, but I found it was too translucent and the inner color may show through.

Step 3:
Pour the wax into the mold to fill the mold completely. This will be your outer shell. Now, let the wax cool until you have a shell of at least a 1/4 inch. Anything less will let the color of the inner core bleed through and much more will defeat the effect of the bleeding eyes. You can figure this out by poking relief holes (as in normal molded candle making) to show just how much a shell has formed by the cooling wax.

Once the shell is formed, create a pour hole in the candle and dump the inner liquid wax back into the pouring pot of the same color. You will use this again later. Remove the mold from your stand and tilt the mold with the top of the skull pointing up so the remaining liquid wax (you never get all the liquid wax out) will gather in the lower back of the mold. See picture below.

Let the outer shell set and cool for about 3 to 4 hours giving it time to harden. Do not rush this process or the core color may bleed through.

Step 4:
Melt 12 oz. of container wax to 180 degrees and add enough red dye too look like blood. A little bit of burgundy may also be added to the red to deepen the color to blood red. Add ¾ of scent if desired. Let cool to 150 degrees.

Step 5:
Sit your mold upright again and pour the red core wax at a temp of 150 degrees into the inside of your skull to about 3/4” below the top of the skull. Allow candle to cool for at least 4 hours.

Step 6:
Re-melt the white outer shell wax and pour to the lip of the mold. Let it cool and again and fill again with white wax if necessary. When the candle hardens, remove it from the mold, level the base of the candle and enjoy your creation.

Burning Hint:
Make sure to always burn in a suitable candle container since a pool of wax will form from the eyes bleeding out. Candle should not be burned more than 4 hours at a time for maximum consumption time.

We hope you have had fun with this project and we would like to thank George Boddie for providing the inspiration and initial instructions for this project.
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HOWTO-PUMPKIN AND JACKOLANTERN
Who can resist a jack-o-lantern at Halloween? Pumpkin carving has evolved into an art form and there are so many different personalities that you can create with just a paintbrush and some black paint.

Items you will need:
Candle molds large enough to paint a face or use a pumpkin shaped mold
Mold Release Spray
Pillar candle wax (141mp or higher blended wax works great)
Wicking
Pumpkin candle coloring
Scent
Melting pot and thermometer
Rubbing alcohol
Black acrylic paint
Paint brush
Pumpkin face templates
Masking tape

Step 1
Prepare your work area, gather your materials, spray your molds with mold release and heat your wax.

Step 2
Wick your mold according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When wax is melted and reaches at least 180 degrees, add the color and scent and stir well with the thermometer to mix the color and scent.

Step 3
Pour the wax into the mold slowly and evenly in the mold. Save some leftover wax in the pot for later if you are not using a single pour blend.

Step 4
As the wax cools, it will shrink and create a “pit” around the wick - this is normal. When the outside of your mold feels cool and there is a pit around the wick you are ready to “top off” the candles. Reheat the leftover wax to 180 degrees again and pour enough wax in the mold to fill the “pit” and create a nice smooth bottom on your candle.

Step 5
Allow the candle to cool fully before attempting to remove from the mold. If the candle does not easily slide out of the mold, tap it gently on the counter or place it in a refrigerator for five to ten minutes then try removing it from the mold again. Never pry or scrape the wax out of the mold.

Your pumpkin candles are complete – if you want to paint a jack-o-lantern face just follow steps 6 and 7 below.

Step 6
Prepare your candle surface for painting by wiping with rubbing alcohol and buffing with pantyhose if the candle finish is very slick and smooth. The alcohol will remove any fragrance oil that may have escaped the wax so that the paint will stick to the wax. Choose your jack-o-lantern face template and affix it to your candle with masking tape.

Step 7
Trace the outline of the jack-o-lantern with the back of the paint brush so that a slight indent is created in the wax to outline the areas to be painted. Paint the outlined parts of the candle with the black acrylic paint. Spray with clear acrylic gloss to seal if desired.

Enjoy your candles!
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LD-BAY
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-BLK
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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DECAL-HAL ASSEMBLY
Our new decorative waterslide candle decals are a cost effective easy way to turn ordinary candles into something extraordinary! Easy to use and comes complete with step-by-step instructions. Great for container and pillar candles!
Price: $11.99

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LD-BO
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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DECAL-TH ASSEMBLY
Our new decorative waterslide candle decals are a cost effective easy way to turn ordinary candles into something extraordinary! Easy to use and comes complete with step-by-step instructions. Great for container and pillar candles!
Price: $11.99

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LD-BR
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-BU
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-CR
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-CS
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-G
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-I
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-KG
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-MO
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-OR
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-PS
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
Price: $3.99

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LD-WA
Very easy to use and will blend nicely with other color so that you can customize your color selection. 1/2 oz. will color up to 100 lbs. of wax! Packaged in a squeeze top bottle.
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CB-BAY
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
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CB-BR
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-BU
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-GO
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-GR
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-JA
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-OR
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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CB-RU
Concentrated color blocks work in paraffin, soy, palm and gel waxes. Color blocks are much stronger than dye chips and therefore more economical to use. Each block will color 15 lbs. of paraffin wax a deep shade, or 20lbs. of wax for a medium shade. Soy and palm waxes may require more color to acheive medium and dark shades than paraffin does while gel wax will require much less color to be used. Sold per block.
Price: $0.99

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DB-FG
Produces shades of color that vary from forest green to sage green
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DB-OR
Produces shades of color that range from candy orange to maize.
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DB-PS
Produces shades of color that range from pumpkin to peach.
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